Sunday, February 20, 2011

Crepe muslin #3

Thanks to Kate and Cassie for their very helpful comments on muslin #2. I think I have figured this out. I made a new front today. I added the "dart" to the side per Kate's instructions to give my front side more width - it worked!!! But the section above the bust still wasn't right. So I re-read Cassie's comments and pinned up the shoulders. Almost, but not quite. As is common with full-busted women, our shoulders aren't as wide as one would think, purely based on bust size. So then I pinched out some of the shoulder seam vertically and the top finally hung the way it should. To compensate, I will have to add the length back to the bottom, but I really think this will do it!!! I'm going to mark up my muslin, copy to the pattern and then match it up with the skirt!! I am hoping to spend next weekend (I have Friday off, so another long weekend) starting on the Crepe with my fashion fabric!!!!!! I think for tomorrow, I'm going to work on the pencil skirt and maybe a nightgown...I need a break from all these fitting challenges.... At the rate I'm going, it may actually be spring by the time I finish this dress....

I really suck at Blogger, so all my pics are at the end.....



before changes

The back - the wrinkles are from me contorting to take this pic.....




After doing the pinning - you can see my belly button and surgery scar, so need to add length here.....

4 comments:

Eugenia said...

I have similar fitting problems as you - full bust but very narrow shoulders, a tricky combination! It looks like you are doing a great job getting your muslin fitted.

Kate said...

Oh nice work. I can see improvement in fit from muslin to muslin.

If you are like me, you might wear a LOT of cotton jersey and stretchy fabrics on a day to day basis. I usually wear knits, at least as a base layer under a jacket or (knit) cardigan. It can be totally different to view your figure in a woven that is much stiffer and does not stretch at the wide parts and shrink in at the narrow parts. :) I think part of the muslin journey is determining what's "normal" and "acceptable" in a fitted woven garment. It will never be quite as smooth and fitted as a knit. Some wrinkles are inevitable. It's just finding what you can live with.

To help with the should fit, one other trick I found is straightening out the shoulder seam. The original pattern is drafted with a pretty intense curve. I kept finding excess fabric over my bust, below my shoulder, and I found when I straightened out this shoulder seam curve it took out much of this excess. Might be worth a try, it's easy to pin it up on a muslin and try it on for fit. No need to sew a new bodice entirely.

Good luck and keep up the hard work. I don't know about you, but once I get this dress perfect, I plan to make several in different fabrics.

Karen in VA said...

Kate - I do wear alot of knits. The RTW dresses I do wear tend to be pretty unfitted as it's hard to find ones with a really defined waist that hit in the right spot due to my height. I did pin up the shoulder and straighten it out some and it did make a big difference - thanks for the tip. Now need to add that length back to the bottom. Like you, I plan on making more of these once I get the fit right. I also think I'm being more perfectionist with this as it's something I'm making, as opposed to a RTW dress that I'm just settling for and accepting the bad fit...

I've bought fabric for a second one!

Amazing Quotes said...

very amazing and interesting post, thank you for sharing
Great Quotes
Positive Life Quotes
Fitness Quotes - Quotes Words
Future Quotes - Successful People
Image Bank - Smile Quotes - Xyore
اقوال وحكم